3D Printable Cat Earrings: Create Your Own Feline Fashion Accessories

If you want a small 3D printing project that actually gets worn, cat earrings are an easy win. 

JD3D Designs’ EARRING CAT model turns a simple print into a real accessory. You get a clean cat silhouette, crisp facial detail, and lots of room to personalize the final look.

This guide walks you through printing, assembling, and customizing the design so your pair looks intentional, not “just printed.”

What these 3D printed cat earrings are

The EARRING CAT file gives you the decorative cat piece. After printing, you add standard jewelry hardware to make it wearable. That “print + hardware” approach is also what makes the design flexible. You can create studs, dangles, or even non-pierced versions.

Because the parts are small, your print settings and handling matter more than usual. A few tweaks can be the difference between a clean accessory and a fragile trinket.

Materials and equipment you’ll need

You don’t need a special printer, but you do need decent detail and consistent first-layer performance.

Printer basics

• FDM printer is fine

• 0.4 mm nozzle works well (smaller can improve detail)

• A well-leveled bed helps a lot with tiny parts

Filament choices

• PLA: easiest to print, tons of colors, good surface finish

• PETG: a bit tougher and more flexible, but can string more

• Specialty PLA (silk/metallic/wood-filled): great for visual impact, but test first

Hardware

• Stud posts + backs, or hooks for dangling earrings

• Jump rings if you want movement

• Optional: small neodymium magnets for non-pierced versions

Tools

• Fine-tipped pliers

• Tweezers

• Strong jewelry adhesive (E6000 or a quality epoxy)

• Optional: pin vise or micro drill, soldering iron (for heat-set posts)

Finishing supplies (optional)

• 400–800 grit sandpaper

• Primer + acrylic paint

• Clear sealant for durability

• Small rhinestones or glitter accents

Print settings that usually work best

Small jewelry prints benefit from slower speeds and consistent walls.

Recommended starting point:

• Layer height: 0.2 mm (0.12–0.16 mm if you want sharper detail)

• Walls: at least 2 perimeters

• Infill: ~15% (keeps weight down while staying sturdy)

• Speed: 30–40 mm/s for cleaner edges

• Supports: usually not needed if oriented well

Orientation tips

Print the cat piece flat on the build plate with the detailed face side up. This keeps your visible surface cleaner and avoids support scars.

If you see a tiny edge lift, add a small brim. It’s often the simplest fix for small parts.

Avoid common print issues

Most problems come from tiny contact points or stringing.

Use these quick checks:

• If the part pops loose, increase bed adhesion (brim, clean plate, correct first layer).

• If you get wispy strings, tune retraction and lower nozzle temperature slightly.

• If edges look rough, slow down outer walls and raise cooling.

Scaling and symmetry

You can scale the STL up or down, but keep proportions locked. Print a few test pairs at:

• 90% for subtle everyday wear

• 100% for the intended look

• 110% for a statement style

For matching pairs, print both earrings in the same job. You’ll get more consistent results.

Assembly that stays put

The cleanest builds happen when you prep the surface first, then attach hardware carefully.

Basic stud attachment

1. Find the flattest area on the back of the cat.

2. Lightly roughen the plastic and the post base with fine sandpaper.

3. Apply a small amount of adhesive to the post base.

4. Press it in place and hold for 30–60 seconds.

5. Let it cure fully (often 24 hours, depending on the adhesive).

If the bond fails easily, switch to two-part epoxy. It usually grips better on small contact areas.

Stronger alternatives (when glue isn’t enough)

Use these only if you’re comfortable working with small parts:

• Heat-set post: warm the post with a soldering iron and press it into the plastic gently

• Pilot hole method: drill a tiny hole and use a post style that anchors mechanically

• UV resin bridge: build a neat fillet around the post base and cure it for extra strength

Non-pierced version

To make clip-free, non-pierced earrings, use magnets:

• Glue or embed a small magnet on the back of the cat

• Use a second magnet behind the earlobe as the backing

• Seal magnets fully so they don’t touch skin directly

Customization ideas that look intentional

You can keep it simple or go all-in. The key is choosing one “theme” and committing to it.

Easy upgrades

• Print in bold colors that match your wardrobe

• Use silk PLA for a glossy, jewelry-like shine

• Pause the print to swap filament for a two-tone effect

Paint and finish

• Add eyes, whiskers, or a tiny nose with acrylic paint

• Use metallic wax for a faux metal look

• Seal the finished piece so paint doesn’t chip

Style changes

• Add a jump ring for a dangling version

• Scale down for minimal studs

• Create mirrored cats so they “face” each other when worn

Sharing, licensing, and good etiquette

Before you post or sell prints, review the model’s license on its listing. In general, you should:

• Credit the original designer when you share your make

• Link back to the listing when possible

• Avoid reuploading the file elsewhere

If you want to sell finished prints, you typically need a commercial license from the creator.

Your next steps

Print one test pair first. Dial in your bed adhesion and outer-wall quality. Then assemble with hardware you actually like wearing. Once you’ve nailed the basics, you can build themed sets for gifts, holidays, or matching accessories.

When you’re ready, download the model and start with a simple color choice. Your first clean pair will teach you more than any settings list ever will.